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Tubs or Clinchers ?????????

AvoneerAvoneer Posts: 174
in General Chat
Hi All,

Trying to decided what to finish off my TT bike with.

Got £400 notes to spend and Planet X have some lovely 101 / 82 carbon tubs for that money.

Just worried that a puncture in a tub will be the end of my race, whereas I can stick a new tube in a clincher.

Any thoughts anyone?

Cheers,

Pat...

Comments

  • QuitterQuitter Posts: 160
    Here we go again......

    Just bought the PX 82/101 wheelset because its just such a bargain!
    Don't forget to add valve extenders £20 and tubs £50/pr minimum onto the total

    £200 Specialized Allez with £600 of wheelset - but I dont care as the wheels will go with me onto the next bike.

    Despite the fact clincher tyres can have a similar TPI to Tubs and the weight difference is minimal I prefer Tubs...because they are cooler and thats what counts is nt it?

    If I puncture mid race..........meh!
  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    Right,

    touch wood... but how many times have you punctured in a race? Realistically if you stretch the tub before hand then its no harder a job to change a tub than it is to change a tube.

    Depending on the race, I carry two spare tubs and two spare CO2 canisters. If I get a puncture and its badly affected my time then I would treat it as an intensive training session and go out see how hard I can push etc.

    For me I've switched from clinchers to tubs, the first thing I would say is that tubs are faster. I won't change back to clinchers for racing and would stay with tubs. Yes tubs are more expensive but I've got a few Contintental Competitions and they are top notch. Still loads of grip on them after loads of races.

    co-incendentaly - I use tubs for racing and clinchers for training..
  • TrisurferTrisurfer Posts: 228
    I agree here,

    I'm currently saving my pennies for deep section rims for next year and intend to buy tubs.

    If you're gonna spend the money you might as well get the fastest thing going ie. tubs.

    I also plan to to train on clinchers and race on tubs. The extra resistance on a clincher (with a heavier more durable tyre) is good for training and the cheaper for the inevitable puncture!
  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    I train with Fulcrum 5's with bontrager all weather tyres. They stick to the road, first time I used them I couldn't believe the difference from the verdenstein slicks that I had been using.

    Train with clinchers/ race with tubs.
  • TRIumphantTRIumphant Posts: 850
    shadowone1 wrote:
    I train with Fulcrum 5's with bontrager all weather tyres. They stick to the road, first time I used them I couldn't believe the difference from the verdenstein slicks that I had been using.

    Train with clinchers/ race with tubs.
    Why not train what you race?
  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    Sorry Tri, for me, clinchers are for training... get the extra resistance from the grippy tyres and then when it comes to racing get the carbon rims on with tubs, blow it up to silly PSI and you'll rip the course up...

    However, I do sometimes occasionally train with the carbon rims also, just depends on where I am going and what distance. If I do go out training on the carbon rims then its a cheaper tub that goes on and not the Continental Competitions..
  • TRIumphantTRIumphant Posts: 850
    I really must see about getting myself a pair, only thing that puts me off is in most of my races and sportives this year, the majority of people I saw on the edge of the road fixing punctures had tubs. But maybe I only noticed those.
  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    Yes but I bet they were cheap tubs!! I saw a few people at IMUK directly out of T1 changing tubs but thats not to say it wouldn't happen with a clincher.

    I sometimes use Tufo tubs for training - £30 for one. They do a job but the continental's are ace. They are expensive but so far I've had no issues with them.
  • md6md6 Posts: 969
    i'm another on the train on clinchers race tubs, however it depends on conditions as my race wheels are deep (90mm front) which i won't take out in the wind, or if its wet...just don't like trying to stop on a carbon rim in teh wet.

    I have tubs because the wheels were on sale (great deal) and happened to be tubs. They are good though and i am now faster changing a tub than a tube on clincher (as i'm crap at that ) - provided its a prestretched tub and i don't need to change the tape which i wouldn't in a race.
  • AvoneerAvoneer Posts: 174
    Conehead wrote:
    Should this strategy fail and you get a puncture you then need to switch to the other strategy for dealing with punctures in triathlon which is 'stare at your tyre in horror at the injustice'
    Really/nearly PMSLing........

    After lots of reading and head scratching, I bit the bullet and bought these today (just got to save up for some tubs now!):

    Pat...

    [img:1ljexryh]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs243.snc4/39499_1543687441875_1525678030_31341101_6887482_n.jpg[/img:1ljexryh]

    [img:1ljexryh]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs138.ash2/40229_1543687801884_1525678030_31341105_700700_n.jpg[/img:1ljexryh]
  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    by Avoneer » 12 Aug 2010 20:19



    Really/nearly PMSLing........

    After lots of reading and head scratching, I bit the bullet and bought these today (just got to save up for some tubs now!):

    Pat...
    Pat.... don't you need some some aerobars, chain, cranks, etc as well....

    sorry couldn't resist.... bikes looking good.
  • TRIumphantTRIumphant Posts: 850
    Clinchers for me, it reminds me what my arse should be doing.
  • AvoneerAvoneer Posts: 174
    shadowone1 wrote:

    Pat.... don't you need some some aerobars
    Mole grips?
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    I have now converted to tubs as a matter of progression.

    Bought a carbon frame not because I had any illusions I would be quicker but to soak up buzz, lumps and bumps. That part worked but it became apparant that my wheels were the weak link so went carbon there as well at that point looked at clincher carbons and they were A. heavier and B. more expensive than the tub counterpart, as I am equally inept at changing inners everything fell into place to go tub. Only one race on this combo and that was the Outlaw, well 180Km later - yep made right decision, much smoother. The only thing I need to sort out now is the saddle as it took 3 days for the numbness in my ahem well you know to dissipate - Selle SMP saddles opinions?
  • AvoneerAvoneer Posts: 174
    Hi,

    Will see how my £25 Vision job works out on a numbness/distance balance!

    Pat...
  • md6md6 Posts: 969
    While i know that the saddle is very individual my one is fantastic. It is a prologo bonedge iron Tri saddle. It has a long nose which is a little wider than some and nice and padded all the way along. Its fantastic.
  • LegacyUserLegacyUser Posts: 0
    Um... Please could you tell me what the difference is between tubs and clinchers? I have a straight-out-of the box Specialized Allez Elite so I guess this has clinchers? Do I need different wheels for tubs, how much difference will race wheels - not expensive ones (!) - (with or without tubs) make?
    Sorry to be a thicko!
  • md6md6 Posts: 969
    CC - Clinches are where you have the tyre which air pressure from the inner tube, forces it out against the wheel 'clinching' onto the lip of it and they are what you have. Tubs are an 'all in one' as it were. THe tub, is made and is complete, there is no inner tube, and you would glue a tub onto the wheel (or use tape). They use different wheels. hope that helps
  • md6md6 Posts: 969
    P.S Race wheels can make a big difference - an improvement in wheels will make you 'faster' as they should hopefully have better roll to them, also buying some better tyres for your clinchers will also hopefully help as they should give less rolling resistence. AIUI the higher the thread count the lower the resistence, but I will wait to be corrected.

    What kind of budget are you looking at for race wheels?
  • LegacyUserLegacyUser Posts: 0
    ..Still don't understand - you inflate a tub, but it has no inner tube? How does it make you faster?


    My tyres are 115PSI/125PSI (is that what you mean?) what would be better? (This is all waaay out of my comprehension btw!)

    I have no budget for wheels. I wait for payday just to enter races on the sly from HAT officer (!) But would start putting pennies by, if I knew what I needed to go for and that it would make a difference?!

    The whole bike was £800 (never spent that much money on myself EVER) and I gather from the forum I could spend that on one wheel easily..."Ahem" - I am NOT in that league, but do like FLYING like FURY on my bike!!!!


    Are the wheels that basic when they're out-of-the-box?


    Sorry to be so vague...
  • md6md6 Posts: 969
    OK no problem. A tub is a tubular tyre - instead of a tyre and an inner tube it is essentially all in one, the tyre completey wraps round into a tube (plus they are round to go over the wheel if that makes sense?) which you then glue onto the wheel - this link might help as an example? http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Continental_Competition_Tubular_Tyre/5300002801/ Tubs tend to be faster that clinchers, my understanding is that they are slightly lighter and offer less rolling resistence, plus they can handle a higher PSI (more tyre pressure) which makes them faster too.

    The TPI is the count of thread per inch (the higher the thread count the less rolling resistence I believe but not certain), I wouldn't worry about it TBH.

    I think for now I wouldn't worry about new tyres at the moment. I think just keep putting those pennies to race entries, much more useful!
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    Error whilst Doing a Replacement, Error in srv_convert.
  • md6md6 Posts: 969
    Thanks for that Zac, much clearer and more detailed than my rambling half arsed nonsense!
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    Thanks MD6 - I really have far too much time on my hands at times and can't just relax, I always have to combine relaxing with doing something which isn't really relaxing I suppose.
  • AvoneerAvoneer Posts: 174
    Quick update:

    Went for tubs in the end so I could indulge in some nice carbon wheels.

    Stuck on with tape and to be filled with slime shortly.

    Done approx 100 miles so far with no problems.

    1st Tri coming up soon so we'll see what happens.

    Probably gonna carry a cheap tub pre-glued and folded up with me so that if I flat, will pull the old tub off, sit the new one on the wheel and hope that the tacky glue or whatever tape remains will see me through to the end.

    Pat...
  • hussler.hussler. Posts: 390
    Just be aware that the tape comes off still attached to the tub.....it doesnt stay stuck to the rim.....

    Shouldnt matter if you have pre glued/taped the spare.....
  • AvoneerAvoneer Posts: 174
    Yep - that's was my thought process.

    If the tape all comes off - great.

    If a bit of tape stays on the rim, no bother.

    If a bit of tape glue residue stays on the rim, no bother.

    It's a win win situation as far as I see it and should be able to change it quicker than a clincher without the risk of an immediate pinch flat (happened to me several times right after an inner change).

    Pat...
  • harveyharvey Posts: 4
    Interesting topic, especially as i'm having problems with my tubs at the minute. My front tire on my cervelo P2C is rubbing the underside of the forks, due to a 'hump' in the tire.

    As a result i'm having to manually lower the rim to avoid the underside of the fork, which isn't ideal. The real wheel is ok as there is adjustment on the dropouts.

    I'm running Continental Sprinter Gatorskins. I'd say it's running out by about 3-5mm. The tires weren't that cheap? or are they? do i need to upgrade to Continental competitons to guarantee a true running tire. BTW my rims are running true, i use Tufo tubualar tape to secure the tub to the carbon rim.

    When the bike is on a stand and the wheels are rotating fast, the bike 'wobbles' quite a bit..The same seems to happen with cheap Vittoria rally's or Conti Giros...

    Any ideas how to solve this?
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    That must be a big hump as I have a 5mm gap twixt tyre and fork on my P2C. Is the wheel damaged?
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