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Cassette Size

Morning One & all,

I ride a 12-25 cassette on standard road wheels.

I'm after some deep section aero wheels & am wondering if it is usual to ride the same size cassette or best to go for something different on the premise i'll be moving quicker?

If so what size?




  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    Cassette in conjunction with your chain rings give you a range of ratios; depending on the course and your abilities that range may or may not be the optimum and that can only be determined by experience.

    See how the new wheels go; an 11-25 would give a wider spread
  • If the freewheel bodies are compatible with each other then I would be tempted to go with another cassete option and a lock ring tool so you have options available to you.

    If you do this ask yourself the question when do I ever and if I do how much do I use my current 11 tooth sprocket. If the answer is like me you are not a gear muncher, I never do, and if I am spinning out on an 11 believe me I am going very fast down a pretty steep descent and am more concerned with what line to take rather than pedaling faster. I say this because an 11 sprocket is unrealistic for the majority of cyclists on a bike, simply not strong enough. Even when I was young and racing I was never encouraged to go that low, personally it is all ego rather than ability in the majority of cases, we are proper cyclists, not shoppers going into town pushing the hardest gear at 40 rpm because we know no better.

    I for one would go for an 12 - 23 , or if the terrain where you train is not too hilly even a 12 - 21. Even the first option will compress the middle of the block where most people ride a lot to one tooth step jumps. This is really significant in helping smooth out and make you efforts more consistent and to 'groove' yourself into a good zone. I swap cassettes over all the time and prefare a closer block even if this can mean riding off the small chainring at times when going ninto a strong wind on the flat. When I do go for a larger sprocket as there are some reasonably long and steep climbs here in the Pennines and I want to save my legs for the rest of the week I often know on the run ins that I am really between gears and have to make a choice of either one up or down to where I would ideally be, this is a compromise and not ideal. If we only have one wheelset and limited funds, or if the terrain is highly varied we have to compromise, if not we should simply take a more flexible approach.

    Hope this makes sense.
  • Having watched the following today from the Jens Voigt cycling academy the other option is to go for a 10 speed set up of 11-11-11-11-11-11-11-11-11-12. Please see link for clarification.

  • Thanks for the insight: - very useful.

  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    I run a range of cassettes on my speed concept.

    I run a 12-25, 11-23 and 11-26.

    I only use the 11-26 when I know its going to get a tad hilly.
  • nivaghnivagh Posts: 595
    My cyclocross is 46/36 and 12-25 but I have road wheels for it too which have an 11-23 to compensate for the small front ring, and I was also running a 50T at the front in the Summer, though the 46 is back on now as I'm doing some offroad stuff and I can't be bothered to change the chainring every time.

    My TT bike is 53 / 39 and 11-23 and I don't think I've spun off the top more than once or twice, on the Rutland course, and at Matlock, but that was over 70kph, and I woulnd't have wanted to go much faster anyway... :roll:
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