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Chainring easy to replace?

Would apprecaite help, mate wants to replace the inside small ring on an FSA set up it is a 130 BCD/PCD and normally takes everyting into his bike shopbut is really strapped at moment. Is this an easy job or should he put it off until he can afford to take it in?



Thanks in advance

Comments

  • transittransit Posts: 163
    Hugh,



    Hmm, depends if he has the tools to take the cranks off. If he has the crank extractor it is really simple. Basically, as it looks. For info. see Park Tools Website,



    cheers

    Transit
  • hughjarcehughjarce Posts: 6
    Me and my mate stood in garage this morning with bike allen key torque wrench and new ring



    Friend says to protesting wife 'need to get this done love gonna take a couple of hours so cant take you shopping'



    Undo 5 allen bolts on chainring, slip off both rings from spider put on new inner ring replace outer redo bolts - bammo 45 minutes give or take - mate very happy



    Wife comes in with a couple of teas for us 'oh good all finished you can come to Tesco with me after all'



    Mates protest about needing to take bike for test ride in vain so honour fell to me



    Well sorted



    Got home 'oh your finished early you can get the garden tidied like youve been promising for the last month'



    Writing this as Im having a cuppa



    No rest for the wicked
  • transittransit Posts: 163
    yeah, that easy, doh, I was thinking of triple chainsets as that is what I have where the inner ring won't clear the spider. Good work!
  • treefrogtreefrog Posts: 1,242
    I have not fully read thid post fully but before yoy start mucking around with INNER chain rings then do your homework: 1. Does the new ring fit your current spider? Are your front & rear mech's up to the replacements? If you go for a 25+ rear cassette then you'll have to go for a medium rear mech. and a long front mech. Think about it
  • TTX PROTTX PRO Posts: 225
    Its a fairly simple job.Here are some simplyfied instructions without using to many terminology.

    1.undo all chainring bolt but only do it half way.

    2.undo chainring bolts one at a time starting with the ones closest to the crank arm.

    3.hold the outer chainring whilst undoing your last chainring bolt

    4.once all bots are undone and removed put in a safe spot neat/next to you then pull gently the chainring and slide it out off the crankarm and put on something so it wont get damaged.

    5.push out the inner chainring gently then slide it over the crank arm

    6.get you new inner chainring then slide it over the crankarm aligning it with the bolt holes then pull back gently and it should stay if not hold it into position.

    7.get your out and slide it over the crank arm then align it with the bolt holes anlso making sure that the little round thing sticking out is next to the crank arm then push it into position it should stay if not then try to hold them both.

    8.get your first two chainring bolts doesnt matter wich ones then pop them in one nearest to the crank arm and the other oposite that then tighten them half way.

    9.next get the remainding bots and pop them in half way.

    10.once there in half way tighten tham all up but not too tight or loose and there you have it.Your new inner chainring installed ready to go.
  • BopomofoBopomofo Posts: 980
    Hey... TTXPro. What's that little round thing that sticks out in step 7?



    I can see one on my chainset, and I've always wondered what it is for. Is it just to make sure you get the chain-rings aligned properly, and if so then why does it matter?



    Just curious.
  • TTX PROTTX PRO Posts: 225
    Thats what we call the chainring marker pin.Basicly it just helps aid us in alignment and thats prety much it.
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