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I am new to this forum (and the wonderful and mysterious world of triathlon) but I have been reading threads and picking up some great tips, so thank you to everyone who contributes. [:)]



I am looking to buy a bike and don’t have a huge amount to spend on it, possibly about £750, but I have come across a second hand bike for £850 and was wondering if you could advise me as to whether you think it is worth the money, as I could stretch my finances if its worth it.



It is as following;

Bianchi 928L frame (full carbon)

Dura ace 9 speed group set

Bontranger x lite wheels

ITM Millenium bars and stem



Obviously it would depend on the condition (which apparently is good) but I will be giving it a good look over.



Any thoughts? Is it worth getting as something I could upgrade as I go? Or will it be too much for me as a beginner?



Thanks [:D]

Comments

  • risris Posts: 1,002
    it's got to be the right size and a frame geometry that you are comfortable with if you are going to drop 850 notes on it. you will be spending a lot of time with it so if it is the wrong size you'll regret it!



    the amount of gear and kit that road riding alone, let alone triathlon, can generate and cost means that you might want to be sure you are going to do it. if 850 is a stretch have you got budget for pedals, shoes, pumps, helmet, kit (shorts/jerseys), insanely light carbon bottle cage (list goes on!).



    a lot of people start tri's with hybrid's, folding bikes, mtb's and if the bug has bit then it's usually off to the carbon section of the shop. if you've no done a tri then 850quid could be a gamble, but at the end of the day it's your cash.



    as long as the bike fits. if you can it's worth checking the frame size and your IL / height etc before you go and check it over.
  • BootooBootoo Posts: 29
    Thanks for the advice. I will have to consider it carefully before making nay decisions.



    What do I need to check in terms of frame geometry? I am not entirely sure what I am looking for. (I am currently on a donated second hand racer that feels small really)

    I know you can get small , medium etc and in cm's so 54 or 56 cm. Is there anything else I should looke out for? How does IL relate to the size of the frame etc?



    Sorry if I am asking really stupid obvious questions [:)]
  • Ron99Ron99 Posts: 237
    To answer those questions, you ideally want to be fitted in a bike shop by people that know what they're doing. Although a 54cm frame will be right on one bike, you might need 52 or 48 on another. There's no simple answer really, but there are a few basics you can look at to see if its approximately the right height and reach for you.



    First, when you sit on the seat and move one of the cranks to the 6 o clock position, you should just be able to put your heel on it. Then, with the same crank at the 3 o clock position, as you look down, your knee should be over the pedal axle. Then, while sitting on the seat and hands on the bars, look down at the hub on the front wheel. A general rule of thumb is that you shouldn't be able to see the whole of the hub as the bars should be blocking your view.



    This is all very rudimentary though, and the best advice is to sit on the bike, and ride it around for a bit. Most important, it needs to be comfortable as you'll be spending a lot of time on it! If you do end up getting that bike second hand, see if you can bring someone along that knows about bikes when you go to check it out. Also, you can take it down to your local bike shop for adjustments later e.g. changing the stem, adjusting the seat etc.



    There's lots of good advice here on the forum, and this article might give you more background info.



    http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/bikefit.html

  • risris Posts: 1,002
    your inside leg measurement should help determine whether the standover height (the level of the top-tube just in front of the saddle) and your groin will be compatible. if the frame (and therefore the height of that tube) is too large then you won't be able to get off the saddle without some discomfort! saddle height and handlebar reach can be adjusted (a bit) but top-tube height can't.



    the frame geometry (shape of the frame) can tell you what these key heights are, but also set the nature of the bike as well. some frames will be a bit more reactive to putting some power down, others feel more relaxed. this is more personal, some like a relaxed geometry as it can be comfortable for long periods in the saddle, others want an aggressive speed machine.



    the bike certainly worth a good look over, unless it is a huge frame and you are 5'2", with an IL of 24", in which case you might be better off without!
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