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TT or road bike?

So, now I've got approval for a shiny new bike, what should I go for?

TT? Or road?

TBH, I just want something that won't leave me crippled after 7 hours in the saddle... failing that, the least crippled.

Opinions gratefully received.

Comments

  • risris Posts: 1,002
    do you plan on saving the new one for 'best', only unleashing it for races and cycle club tts?

    or do you expect to use it as much as you can for dry riding/races, going out on regular long rides with clubs/friends, commuting and the like?
  • I think that a TT bike is a sign of commitment to the sport.
    My personal feeling is that TT bikes are best avoided for the first year or so, mainly because they are so specialised. It's not like you're likely to nip to Tescos on it, so if you're not certain that Tri is for you then it can be a waste of money.

    Flavadave, if you have a serviceable road bike, why not stick with it AND buy the TT bike. Go on you know you want to!
    Just make sure that rear cassettes are compatible between your bikes so you can swap training/race wheels as the terrain demands.
  • andyb99andyb99 Posts: 229
    Dave, why not get a TT bike and put some drop bars on it for a few months...then you'll be used to the frame, you can try the TT bars at will then and choose which are best when it comes to IMCH....i'm jealous btw...i want a new bike
  • ...ah Drop Bars on a TT bike. Just like Mr Coneheads first TT bike! Yes - I've read the book.
  • shadowone1shadowone1 Posts: 1,408
    Dave,

    I've posted on the other forum but thought I should add something else. I didn't go for a TT cause I don't think I'm quite there yet in terms of speed. Would it look good, yes but I personally would feel it was a waste of money until such times I saw an improvement. My reason for the new bike was to go faster on it and I did with Argon, I don't think I would've been quicker with a TT as I can't hold the aero position long.

    So I went for the road bike and Mike altered the set-up and fitted me up for both road and TT(road bike position altered).

    I've still got my old bike also and its now getting unwrapped of it cotton wool and will be out in full force in the winter. You should keep the current bike and use it during the winter too.

    You'll always get the debate of which is better road or TT but it has be done to preference and ability, I would find completely demoralising to by a TT and be slower.
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    Triathlon bike - you know you want to
  • jacjac Posts: 452
    Surely the comfort of the bike is going to be down to: bike fit, your training and your flexibility/core strength?
    I would go for a tri specific bike. Yes, you will feel discomfort at first but your body will adapt to the new position. - providing you don't go and hammer out an 80 miler with your first ride! Increase mileage gradually, at say 10% a week, and the change in position won't cripple you.
    Provided your bike fit is sound, your training and technique is good then I'd be surprised if your speed fell.
    And running off the bike will be easier than a road bike.
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    Further to Jac's reply and a slap on my wrist for not expanding on my previous post- a road bike and its geometry is designed to get the power from those throbbing humogeous quads translated into forward motion. Apart from the legs the upper body is also engaged as the weight of the upper body is supported through the arms and wrists.

    Along came aero bars and the aero advantage. The problem with aero bars on a road bike is that the centre of gravity is thrown out and power ouput is reduced as the cyclists body adopts a sub optimal posture for the bikes geometry. The hips are also at a tighter angle and you may feel discomfort as the blood flow may be reduced.

    Time Triallists apparantly also engage the upper back muscles with a Vulcan death grip on the bars to get more power laid down (but am ready to satnd correcetd on that)

    Time triallist and road cyclists do not leap off their bikes and lauch into a run hence the development of the Tri specific bike.

    A Tri specific bike is designed for you to stay aero for long periods of time, the weight of the upper body is supported on the arm pads and the hands gently curl around the bars but do not have a death like grip. So IMHO a Tri bike is much more comfortable and faster than a road bike in the majority of conditions and you will certainly launch off faster into the run. And if that hasn't sold you the Tri specific geometry and all the aero goodies actually benefit Age Groupers more than it does the Elites
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    'nuff said!
  • huwdhuwd Posts: 228
    gunforhire wrote:
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    'nuff said!
    Ditto - do it, I would if I was in the market for a new bike
  • Tri bike with spare cash and a new road bike in cycle to work scheme ?
  • GHarvGHarv Posts: 456
    Here's another thought on this debate around how much you need to spend on a TT bike...

    Have you read 220 this month? The Blow meister has been to drag zero and wind tunnel tested two bikes - Cervelo P4 (£6K) and Focus culebro Tria (£876 - Wiggle).

    The P4 was only 3 seconds per kilometre faster - 2 minutes on a 40k bike leg - for an extre £5k.

    He then put the areo wheels on from the P4 to the Culebro and brought the difference down to 2 seconds per kilo only just a over a minute - and the Culrbro is an Alu frame!!!

    Maybee a cheaper TT bike and aero wheels is all you need.

    £876 + American classix 58's for £800?????????
  • ZacniciZacnici Posts: 1,385
    GHarv - Being the proud owner of the Culebros predecessor, the Izalco, I can vouch for the fact that they are well specced machines. Again this highlights that it is not overall weight that is important but rotational weight and the FSA/SRAm setup is very good for the money. Sadly I have £900 legs and not £6K ones.

    However this certainly chips away at any doubt as to whether one should go road or Tri bike - I will not compete with Gunforhires cogent rationale - how can you argue that!

    The only thing that would sway me from dropping the alu frame for a carbon is if I were to go 'long', the carbon frame hopefully would reduce road bumps and lumps and the stress of being in the saddle for 6hours. Even then I would simply swap over most of the components from the Izalco as it is that well specced.
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