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Race / Training Wheels
Trisurfer
Posts: 228
in General Chat
I only have one road bike and would like to up-grade my wheels to some deep section carbon. (Colbert edge)
Question is?????
I'm a very poor bike mechanic, and have very little time for it self employed/young family. Repairing a puncture is a major hassle for me!
would it be wise to leave the carbon wheels on all the time and train using them? or is that a bad idea?
I do TT's every Thursday night and can't face needing to change wheels every week!!
Also when you change a wheel say from training wheel to deep section, do the gears line up just the same??
Question is?????
I'm a very poor bike mechanic, and have very little time for it self employed/young family. Repairing a puncture is a major hassle for me!
would it be wise to leave the carbon wheels on all the time and train using them? or is that a bad idea?
I do TT's every Thursday night and can't face needing to change wheels every week!!
Also when you change a wheel say from training wheel to deep section, do the gears line up just the same??
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Comments
Yes, the gears will line up exactly the same providing you don't want to swap from a 9 speed cassette to a 10 speed or something. Save yourself a lot of trouble by buying exactly the same cassette for your carbon rear that you already have on your training rear.
Changing wheels takes seconds. You don't need to be a mechanic. You don't even need any tools. You must have done this before, surely?
Even a girl can change a set of wheels in a couple of minutes......JEEZ
When you change wheels do you need to deflate your tyres to get them out past the brake pads? I do but i noticed a guy at the TT the other week didn't.
I can change a wheel fine, just I like to manage my time so I'm either racing or training. Its a fine balance between time for tri and plenty time for family.
I just see 10mins changing wheels is better spent as 10 mins training or racing. Fair enough 10 mins sounds nothing but 10 mins before and after say once a week is 20 mins per week. Over say 6 month season that's 8 hours.
I think another thing is not so much whizzing off one set of wheels and putting on another but also brake blocks. If your training wheels are alu then the brake blocks will need to be changed as carbon wheels require special blocks. There are however a few carbon wheels with alu brake strips so that removes that pain e.g HED, Spinergy Stealth. Your 10 minute job then becomes 30 minutes otherwise.
I remain to be convinced that deep section wheels benefit anyone unless they are maintaining 35Km hr; many threads/reviews I have seen all seem to contain the comment '... once they are wound up to 23mph ...'
I threw in a link here:
slow-cycle-t48937.html#p66059
For the expense of deep sections similar time gains can be made by simply riding/driving around the route beforehand, wearing a pointy hat, or switching to more efficient tyres.
An alternative might be to look at some hand made alloy wheeels, 31mm profile max but at £350 - £550 a set may be an alternative option.
Having said that I am also looking for a pair of 50 carbons myself
Good luck and don't lose sight of your priorities.
However I do always partially-deflate/reinflate my tires anyway before riding as they wont always inflate if you dont.
10 minutes to change them? Be like a Formula 1 pit crew and get some practice. I reckon its at most 1 minute for the front wheel and 2 minutes for the back.
Or do you have one arm tied behind your back and blindfolded
WTF......
I swap between my carbons and my Fulcrums all the time..... can't recall it taking 10mins to change a set of wheels.
I never bother changing the cassette. Same one stays on.
I would suggest some practice and you'll be fine
To confirm: you are using quick release wheel skewers and quick release brakes?
Theres got to be a youtube of this somewhere, however I cant get there as the site is blocked, so...
Taking the wheel off:
1. release the brakes
2. release the quick release handle on the wheel
3. loosen the skewer by holding the quick release and spinning the other end.
4. Lift the bike, and the wheel drops out.
Puting it on:
1. Put the bike on a stand if poss
2. start with the wheel forward and below of its end position.
3. Pull the chain down to make room and put the chain on the cassette first.
4. Then push the wheel back and up into the recess.
5. Put the bike on the ground to ensure its properly in the right place.
6. Then tighten the skewer followed by closing the quick release.
7. Close the brakes.
If you are doing this already, which is the bit you are struggling with.
HTH
Adrian
WTF
Are you serious??!!!
Apologies for not joining the associateed WTFing at this but unfortunately okenny and trisurfer seem to be dead-on serious.
Taper week, not got enough going on.
I hoped you guys might have a better faster trick!
My problem is the lack of stand! Holding the frame in one hand and the chain in the other leaves no hand for the wheel!
I switch rear wheels all the time, but it's never an oil free smooth affair!
I usually change gear to the smallest cog on the back so that the chain can be put back on more easily.
Thanks for the help.
p.s.
knocked 5 mins off my Olympic distance PR yesterday!
No I don't mean the sarcastic comments or the fine display of WTF!!
I do find it impressive that you can change both front and back wheels and swap brake pads all in 5 mins!
Also which world do you live in where everyone can afford multiple wheel sets and hours of spare time to practice changing them?
This appears to be the case with your surprise that I've never changed an alloy to carbon wheel set.
I appreciate all the positive comments and remarks
Well done for knocking 5 mins off your OD PB okenny!
Basic bike stuff is just as important to the more advanced stuff and whilst we may not all be the best mechanics in the land most of us can do basic stuff such as change wheels and brake blocks.