Wheel and cassette issues-need advice!
JonathanFerguson
Posts: 53
in General Chat
Hello everyone,
Need some advice on changing wheels and cassettes. I recently changed my wheels from some standard Shimano wheels, wh500's or something (i.e. the worst model) to some Mavic Krysiums. As well as that I changed my rear cassette from a 12:25 to a 12:27 to help with taking on the big hills in longer events(i had to buy a new chain as well as apparently it wears with the cassette)....Anyway since doing this about a 2 weeks ago I have found that I am consistently slower when out cycling, i.e. I would go along before at around 19-20mph pretty comfortably, and now im grinding out 18mph with my heart rate about 10bpm higher- basically feels like i'm riding with the brakes on (and they're not as I checked!!)....Has anyone experienced this, or knows whats going on? Does it need time to wear in before it gets better, or could it be a problem with the new wheels or maybe the new ratios aren't working (this is what some guy said from the shop where i bought my bike-but surely there would be comparable ratios between the two set ups??)..Any advice would be great as this is really confusing/annoying me!
Thanks,
Johnny
0
Comments
What are the ratios in between the smallest/biggest gears? You may find one or two might be different, so the gear you comfortably cycled in before may be one up or one down from what it was before.
Cheers
Rob
Another suggestion to the apparent up in your heartrate and drop in speed would be tiredness or if you had a cold/patch of illness lately as this can affect overall performance.
Assumming you are running 10 speed you would have had the following sprockets 12/13/14/15/16/17/19/21/23/25 so you are probably missing the 16 now.
I am still only running 8 speed due to coming back to the bike after a seven year break but using my old kit. I went the other way and went from a 12/21 to a 13/21 so giving 13/14/15/16/17/18/19/21 (adding the 18) so no real gaps through the gears, the 13 with a 52 chain ring still means you can touch 30 MPH all be it with cadence in the 95 to 100 region and 21 is plenty for most hills. It worked for me on the New Zealand Ironman.
The last message was quite possibly the funniest thing I have read on this forum
Like that the breaks' are actually clearing your new wheels (i.e. you're NOT riding with the brakes on!)
Or that the cones / axle is setup correct - does the wheel spin freely when you take it off the bike, and hold it by the axle?
Can somebody give me a quick overview of how it works. the only thing I know is going from 7 to 14 gears, gives you more gears. but changing sprockets, short cage, long cages, huh??
I have realyl basic Shimano 7 speed 2200 rubbish. Can this be upgraded?