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single chain ring set up

Has anyone got any advice on BB/crank set/chain/freewheel combo for a 10 speed single chain ring set up. Apparently it can be done, you just need to get the components right. Any advice gratefully received.



  • agent_tiagent_ti Posts: 306
    Are you talking about a single speed, or just a 10 speed with a single chain ring at the front? main thing to make sure is that the chain width fits the teeth on both the cassette and chainring
  • A 10 speed block with a single chain ring at the front. Getting hugely conflicting advice as to whether this is a good thing or not!
  • agent_tiagent_ti Posts: 306
    my advice would be no, first, whats the point? 2nd the teeth widths are going to be different for the single speed crank and 10-speed cassette, at best its going to cause all teeth and cassettes to wear fairly quickly, at worse the chain will refuse to fit onto the single speed crank, as the teeth are generally wider.
  • JulesJules Posts: 987
    Out of interest what's the perceived advantage of this set-up? Weight? aerodynamics?
  • Good question, I'm fishing really after reading an article somewhere on the worldly wide web-goodness knows where- about dumping a chainring & associated bits-less to go wrong, no overlapping gears etc etc (I think that was the gist). And I'm guessing that with a 10sp block and the right chainring I'd have 90% of my riding catered for - and I'd coast the rest!
  • agent_tiagent_ti Posts: 306
    if youre going to do that, and remove the inner chain ring and front derailleur it should work, if you have a normal crank up front, just minus a chainring. You will need to be careful about chain tension because if youre climbing and no front derailleur to ensure that chain stays on, you risk it coming off if youre massively cross-chaining. But this is unlikely
  • OK, thanks for that, a fair bit to think about
  • woodywoody Posts: 52
    I read an article in cycling plus last year that true hill climbers do this for hill climb comps. remove front deraillieur and the inner chainring. IIRC the theory was that you didn't need the weight or the extra gears, and less chance of something going wrong. Not convinced, all the hill climb comps I've done most have used normal gear setups with the occasional rider using a single speed fixie.
  • robwhillrobwhill Posts: 1

    Old thread, but here's my 2-penneth's worth!

    I recently removed the 50/34 compact rings and replaced with single 44t hope narrow wide.

    Cranks are FSA Gossamer compacts. mounted the 44T on the back side of the spider, changed the wavy washer from non-drive to drive side.

    Change rear cassette from 11-25 to 11-28, both 10-speed. No dropped chains, approximately 130g saved and 10 USABLE gears. No repeated ratios and minimized cross-chaining. Slight reduction of ratios however. But in my case, I am more about high cadence than high gears. so effectively lost the 50:11 and 50:12, which I never used anyway. Also, lost the 34:25 and 24(?) climbing gears. Not a major issue either. Just MTFU'd a bit!

    Too many triathletes trying to push hero gears like 53:11. You aren't Tony Martin! Get with the times and spin a bit faster!

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